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As a new member I thought I would share a few projects.
Starting with my latest build.
I saw this image on the internet and decided to try and build the MGTF driven by Pat Moss and Anne Wisdom on the 1955 RAC rally.
I bought the dapol MGTD kit on ebay but it was obviously the earlier T series.
With help from Moss Europe parts diagram I removed the original free standing headlamps and built up the headlight online practice casino money blackjack real using P38 car body filler.
I also modified the radiator grill to the later sloping angle.
This shows work in progress with the penelope pitlane chassis trial fitted.
For the wheels I cut off the tyres and from the original kit wheels and sanded them thinner.
I then fitted them on the front of some scrapbox airfix wheels.
Luckily the Scalextric Formula GP Vanwall tyres often sold as noprint fitted fine with the Ortmann version on the rears.
I used castings from an airfix driver figure using a simple latex mould to create article source figures.
Here are images of the finished model.
I currently can't decide whether to make up some side screens or not.
Here’s another entry in my 1967 BOAC 500 series.
This car has been modeled in the recent past by both MRRC and Scalextric so why did I bother?
Well, those two models are pretty good but they both have some serious setbacks.
I bought both and blackjack odds happy – this car is a very important part of motor racing history.
When I started thinking about the problems with each model it turned out that you could combine the two and make one really good model – so I did.
My hybrid is made up like this: Basic Body: MRRC – this is an accurate shape, with very good body detail.
The Scalextric model has a cockpit that’s too narrow and most of the body detail is fuzzy or not there at all.
Chassis: Scalextric – this is a standard Scalextric sidewinder and once the fat magnet is consigned to the Fat Magnet Stack and replaced with a thin one it drives brilliantly, with good road holding and predictable tail breakaway at the limit.
The MRRC chassis is bearable as long as the super strong magnet isn’t removed but there’s no way to make it work OK if you want a car that isn’t stuck down like glue.
Both interiors are fine but the MRRC car lacks lights.
Wheels: MRRC but they needed work.
The MRRC wheels look much better than the Scalextric from the side top left pic, Scalextric at the top, MRRC below but they are much too narrow top right below – Rear at the left.
To fix this I moved the rears to the front and extended a new MRRC rear wheel using the old front wheels thus: Twiddly Bits: The Scalextric wing was used because it has better struts and the rear deck used the Scalextric photoetch grille, with a decal mounted underneath for the spare tyre.
The side radiator outlets were matt black.
Paint: This is a highly contentious issue among Chaparral anoraks.
The legend is that Chaparral used a pure white paint that turned creamy in the Texan climate.
Could be true but it’s a fact that Can Am Chaparrals look a heck of a lot whiter than most European Chaparrals.
It’s also a fact that every US photo of a Chaparral is in full sunlight and almost every European shot is taken under clouds!
Anyway, I used Montana Gold White Cream 59110 and to me it looks perfect.
These paints are satin so they need a gloss varnish overcoat.
I used Amsterdam Clear Lacquer 133 which is designed to protect objects that have been sprayed with acrylic.
This is as far as I’ve gotten with this particular race And this is why my rate of car building has suffered this year That's Annabel.
Shell is one I cast out of resin and it sits on a Gift Card Chassis in a sidewinder arrangement, It is a fantasy livery with a storyline that this was the start of BARC racing.
This car is powered by a small motor I use for my 143 scale builds, but it does well in this small 132 model.
Last picture shows the model before I lowered the rear end to match the front Second cars is the official entry and is powered by a Ninco motor in an inline configuration Cheers Dan Can someone point me in the right direction for moulding clear plastic for my breadvans please?
I need to make a domed cover for the engine.
I have some suitable plastic - I think slotforum scratch but the actual technique of forming the shape escapes me.
I have tried warming it over the mould with a flame but the plastic either burns or wrinkles.
I assume I have to stretch the plastic over a frame and then push the mould into it when warm but.
Any tips would be most welcome.
The 1960 BRM P-48 2.
As part of the project to have something from every decade since 1910 motorised, here's the latest.
I'd originally meant to put an old RX motor in it as that seemed appropriate but the shaft was too wide for a modern Scalextric contrate.
Also I made the mistake of trying to paint the various 'coachlines', and would probably have been better off leaving them out!
The mudguards were easy as their is a small plastic trough into which the paint flows.
As for the other slotforum scratch, enough said.
The driver is a modern F1 driver with a read more appropriate head!
Moss's 1956 Monaco winner is on the bench but I can't find a good photo of the left exhaust side.
The only photo I have at hand is a 40 year after-the-fact restoration that I suspect may share little more than the racing number with the original.
Advice greatly appreciated EM Hello Everyone I wondered if anyone could help me by turning some small parts for my Cosworth 4WD drivetrain?
Or point me in the direction of someone who could?
I've tried making them using various methods but without a lathe there is no hope!
Quite happy to pay of course!
I am having difficulty linking the stub axles to the diffs and need four adaptors: Each: 3.
Cheers Andi At last version 4 probably more like version 44 of my wireless controller is done so I’d like to take the opportunity to share it with the group.
Development has ended up with much smaller units which are still mostly prototype rather more than production standard in as much as I can disassemble them the hand controller is one part and the powerbase is the other to try out ideas and so on.
A previous version showed me that using a custom PCB was easier to build and potentially smaller but a nightmare to rework should the need arise.
A major change is this hand controller doesn’t have a load of potentiometers on it to adjust the settings.
The new version has a single encoder and a push button and the settings are read of a small OLED screen.
Whilst individual controls for each setting are effective the approach doesn’t allow for new settings controls to be added easily.
Also the potentiometers have a click here to ‘wander’ in their setting a bit whereas the encoder approach is totally precise.
The hand controller uses a Scalextric digital controller for its input.
It is mostly standard and I have chosen this as replacements are cheap and available and work pretty well but I have modified a number of commercial controllers.
The modifications made are a 2.
Here is the powerbase.
It plugs into the 3pin and has very little to do except adjust the power and braking using PWM outputs in accordance with what the hand controller is set to and sends.
A small OLED screen is used just for verification of what is going on during development.
This version used an IR control to make various settings including binding the powerbase with the hand controller but this has now been updated with a new method and the IR will be ditched in the future.
It is powered by the track supply usually but a battery can be plugged in where your track is unpowered until the start flag drops.
A USB port is used for external power and for uploading new software or connecting to a PC for monitoring purposes.
Here is the new hand controller.
Auto binding with the powerbase requires little user input and the binding code is randomly generated and picked up by the powerbase.
This approach stops another controller using the same binding code and a powerbase being confused by wireless signals coming from two controllers.
This is the version that has all the features originally planned operational.
I can’t say if all the variables that can be set need to on a production version but when experimenting you need to be able to slotforum scratch with everything.
You can adjust the trigger to voltage output mapping.
Simplistically a one to one mapping of trigger position show 0-100% in the horizontal axis against a 0-100% voltage is shown below.
You can control the start voltage which kicks in after the trigger has started to be pressed and also the maximum voltage as seen in the image below.
The general john blackjack pershing hold zones at the maximum end of the trigger position can be set where the trigger change causes no change in voltage output until the last trigger movement.
Also the curve between the start voltage and landing zone can be adjusted to be more or less aggressive is 27 steps.
Shown here Braking can be set from 50% to 100% and this kicks in when the trigger position is zero.
There is a setting that will control the time the braking will remain on when in the zero trigger position to allow a car to brake and then coast through the corner.
There is also a pre-braking effect that kicks in as the trigger is released but before it reaches zero.
You have control over how much falling trigger movement will cause the pre-braking to kick in, the amount of braking that will be applied and for what time period.
A control can be set to soften the jump in voltage delivered when a trigger is snatched on.
Whilst it is a bit of fun it was a useful test bed as I put all the powerbase hardware into the truck.
This was click here experiment to see how robust the wireless connection was in close proximity to a motor and also the wired up brake lights allow me to see when the pre-braking is kicking in even if I can’t notice it when driving.
It is also serving a pre-cursor to another toy car project.
Now it needs development effort and driving skill I only have one of those!
This past weekend, my wife and daughter surprised me with the amt re-issue of the 1961 Ford Ranchero!
Even though I haven't quite finished the '56 T-Bird I had to start building the Ranchero!
What a great sight to see the original box reprinted in all of its retro glory!
The model inside is just great!
The body is clean and its lines are very crisp: I just couldn't wait to get some paint on it!
I chose a gold that to me looks very 1960s Here it is out of the paint booth: I hope to get going on the chassis tonight!
As always, any and all comments are more than welcomed!
Thanks John I have been unpacking my projects to decide in what order I am going to build them in and my Jaguar MK2 has a slight twist in it.
I had thought of taping it to a flat metal plate and putting it in some warm water for a while and let it cool.
Does anyone have any other suggestions that might help Thanks Tony I have to say that I am far from being an accomplished modeler, but here is my first effort some paint does need finishing.
Resin body, chassis by Penelope Pitlane, Driver from RS Slots, steering wheel stolen from an Airfix E type I am hoping for her to run at Rockingham on September 4th In the US.
This is my 'best' retro racer.
This time I am attempting to build a Zakspeed Ford Escort Mk2 Group 5.
I sourced the body from a scrapped SCX Ford Escort which started life as a rally car which I rebuilt into a Classic Cup Racer, but was never used for the racing as the Mk2 Escort was not allowed to race.
The wheel arches and the front spoiler came from this resin kit.
Being a modeler, a dry fit is a very necessary step and I couldn’t wait see what it could look like once built.
That’s all for now.
Hi Guys, I'm using these pinions with Slot It offset contrates in the UKRRA series but it seems these pinions are now discontinued as I can't find anyone stocking them.
Quite a few other racers have shown an interest in these gears but if the 7T pinion isn't available its not an option.
I have tried the Avant Slot 7t pinion but these don't give anywhere near the smooth mesh we have with the MB Slot pinion.
Has anyone used any other 7T pinion with Slot It gears or know of a possible supply of these?
As it turns out, this could end up being the biggest index of the lot, as I'm already up to over 300 builds, and so far I've only gone back a couple of years or so.
If there is any interest, I'll go back further, and if there is enough interest perhaps some kind mod would consider pinning this list, like the others.
I've only included completed scratch builds and kit builds here.
I haven't included unfinished builds, reliveries or modifications, unless those mods involve some fairly serious work.
I've really enjoyed looking through all this wonderful work, and hopefully this list will make it a little less time consuming for others to enjoy it too.
Here is a brief description of my build of one of my favourite Lotus car, mind you I love almost every one of them.
During 1967 and 1968 Lotus raced this car in most of the European sports car races, when commercial sponsorship was first permitted by the CSI in 1968 Lotus had all its squads in F1, F2, F3 and Sports Cars decked out in the colours of the Players fag packet.
The Lotus looked stunning in this colour scheme and its first race was at Brands Hatch on the 7th April 1968 - a very sad date for other reasons but not this thread.
A couple of shots of the resin bodyshell being prepared.
I had to sand and smooth off the front and rear bumpers which were on the road car but not the racing version, I also had to create the small NACA ducts on each side of the rear engine cover, The existing filler cap holes had to slotforum scratch filled in and new ones created in the correct orientation for the car at this race.
The rear light clusters were made up from plastic sheet pieces and let into the rear of the shell.
I masked and sprayed the shell with Halfords Volkswagen Mars Red and Halfords Appliance White.
I used a Pendles chassis with Slot it motor, gears and axles - the wheels and tyres are also Pendles.
The three body mount posts were made from Plastruct tubing.
Three photos of the finished understand blackjack carburetors not />The gold striping that runs around the colour separation line was done with fine gold decal strip and the rest of the logos and race numbers were done using transfers from my spares box.
I feel sure this has been done before and much better than my attempt but I couldn't find one on the new index.
Really useful idea by the way.
This started out as a scrap scalextric bodyshell with reworking of the nose section with P38 filler.
Mounting posts were made from 4mm square section hollow rod and the PP chassis drilled to match.
The suspension came from F1 scraps with some 0.
I use the mig wire quite a bit but I do get through a lot of drill bits.
Aluminium tube was used for the exhausts.
I might update the model by fitting the Dan Gurney head now it's available.

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