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Finding the best poker table felt round suitable for your needs isnt easy.
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BBO Poker Nighthawk Poker Table for 8 Players with Blue Felt Playing Surface, 55-Inch Round FeatureVersatile 8-player poker table with scratch-resistant, premium black gloss finish Solid oak claw foot pedestal; removable playing surface for quick changes Easy-to-clean faux leather vinyl armrest; black gloss racetrack with built-in chip tray Includes eight 4-inch stainless steel cup holders Measures 55 inches in diameter; optional matching dining top available sold separately DescriptionEnjoy professional style gaming in your home with the Nighthawk poker table from BBO Poker.
This classic round table features a racetrack with built-in chip rack, eight stainless steel cup holders, and a comfortable, easy-to-clean faux leather vinyl armrest.
The table and solid oak claw foot pedestal have a scratch-resistant black gloss finish, and an optional matching wood table top is available for transforming this poker table into a dining table sold separately.
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The Nighthawk offers a choice of two playing surfaces -- poker felt or water-resistant suited speed cloth a smooth polyester weave fabric that provides faster card slides.
The table measures 55 inches in diameter.
BBO Poker Tables manufactures stylish, high quality poker tables and game night tables for players who demand a premium showpiece at an affordable price.
All tables are upholstered in California.
In 2015, BBO Poker Tables was named the official poker table supplier of the World Poker Tour.
Round, Patio, Dark Green, Linen, Polyester Winter Weather Cover 67 x 43 inches FeatureMade from durable, weather-resistant polyester Round patio table cover fits: 60 x 84 inches Perfect for get-togethers, parties or festive holidays, like Cinco De Mayo - pretty best poker table fabric and vibrant colors will add a festive air Stain and wrinkle resistant to simplify cleanup and upkeep, keeps mess at a minimum Dimensions are 60 x 84 inches DescriptionConsists of 100% polyester for a soft feel and polished appearance on your dining table.
Perfect for get-togethers, parties or festive holidays like Cinco De Mayo - pretty design and vibrant colors will add a festive air.
Stain and wrinkle resistant to simplify cleaning and upkeep.
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Dimensions are 60 x 84 inches.
BBO Poker Ginza LED Poker Table for 8 Players with Blue Felt Playing Surface, 55-Inch Round FeatureVersatile 8-player poker table with scratch-resistant, premium black gloss finish and LED lighting Solid oak claw foot pedestal; removable playing surface for quick changes Easy-to-clean faux leather vinyl armrest; black gloss racetrack with built-in chip tray Includes eight 4-inch stainless steel cup holders Measures 55 inches in diameter; optional matching dining top available sold separately DescriptionEnjoy professional style gaming in your home with the Ginza poker table from BBO Poker.
This classic round table comes with remote-controlled LED lights that go from red to green to everything in site practice online best poker />Features include a racetrack with built-in chip rack, eight stainless steel cup holders, and a comfortable, easy-to-clean faux leather vinyl armrest.
The table and solid oak claw foot pedestal have a scratch-resistant black gloss finish, and an optional matching wood table top is available for transforming this poker table into a dining table sold separately.
Other features include eight 4-inch stainless steel cup holders and a think, best signup offers casino delightful playing surface allows easy playing surface changes.
The Ginza offers a choice of two playing surfaces -- poker felt or water-resistant suited speed cloth a smooth polyester weave fabric that provides faster card slides.
The table measures 55 inches in diameter.
BBO Poker Tables manufactures stylish, high quality poker tables and game night tables for players who demand a premium showpiece at an affordable price.
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Fitted Round Elastic Edge Solid Green Felt Table Cover for Poker Puzzles Board Games Fits 36" to 48" Also Fits 36" Square FeatureHigh quality felt with elastic edge Fits tables 36"-48" Round or Square Use for puzzles, cards, games, poker or a liner Made in the USA DescriptionFeaturing stretch to fit elastic edge and green felt.
Folds conveniently for storage.
Easy to use and Made in the USA 5.
Great for at-home gaming, Sure Stick allows you to have a smooth playing surface with minimal storage pace.
Using precise printing techniques, a white ring around the edge of each layout separates the betting area from the player's personal https://allo-hebergeur.com/best/beste-casino-bonussen.html space.
Unlike traditional felt layouts, Sure Stick won't wrinkle or crease during the game.
A rubber-lined bottom keeps the layout from slipping and sliding off the table.
And best of all, when the game is over, Sure Stick playing surfaces can be rolled up and easily stored.
This circular layout measures 54' in diameter.
It best poker table fabric a great gift idea for any poker player, and is a must-have accessory for any game room.
Custom made to order.
Suitable for once a month play.
Ever cover we make is custom, made to order, upon order.
Comes with felt stow tote, All Holiday orders, we ship priority mail within 2 days!
Fits 48 inch table; round or less.
Bonnet is pretreated for wear.
Comes with storage bag, and care instructions.
Made totally in USA.
Shipped via priority mail.
All covers are custom made at time of order.
Returns for Refunds are NOT accepted.
Size or color not listed - advise 585 734 3423 for other options 7.
Comes with drawstring cord and barrel loc cinch.
Made to fit table size.
Playezze is designed to drape on table, cinch and play.
Black Felt Poker Table Cover - Black Tablecloth Bonnet - For Round 48 Inch Table - Patio Table - With Elastic Band Featurefelt poker cover - fits all 48" round tables.
Idea for any patio tables, kitchen tables, card tables, fold out tables.
Felt table cover with also fit any 8 sided table.
All Holiday orders, we ship priority mail within 2 days!
Suitable for once a month play.
Ever cover we make is custom, made to order, upon order.
Comes with felt stow tote, All Holiday orders, we ship priority mail!
Idea for any card, bridge, or dice table covers, patio table cover DescriptionFelt - poly felt cover with drawstring and barrel loc cinch.
Fits 48" round or less.
Bonnet is pretreated for wear.
Comes with storage bag, and care instructions.
Made totally in USA.
Shipped via priority mail.
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Green Felt Poker Table Cover - fitted Poker Tablecloth - Green - For Round 60 Inch Table - Elastic Bl Featurefelt poker cover - fits any round 60 inch patio tables, We make any quantity.
Has elastic band with barrel loc cinch, and felt stow bag Poly felt table bonnets are suitable for once a month play.
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Felt card table covers are all custom made upon order.
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Felt majhong or bridge game table covers - email for other sizes and color options DescriptionFelt - poly felt cover with elastic band and barrel loc cinch.
Fits 60" round or less.
Bonnet comes pretreat for wear, storage bag, and care instructions.
Made totally in USA.
Shipped via Priority Mail.
Ever cover we make is custom, made to order, upon order.
Suitable for 1-2 times a month play.
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Brybelly Sure Stick Round Poker Table Layout with Rubber Grip Matting, Green, 54-Inch FeatureRound, green Sure Stick Rubber Foam Table Top Great alternative to expensive poker tables Smooth playing surface, easy storage Measures 54 inches in diameter Rubber-lined bottom prevents slipping and sliding DescriptionThis round, green Sure Stick Rubber Foam Table Top is the perfect alternative to an expensive poker table.
Great for at-home gaming, Sure Stick allows you to have a smooth playing surface with minimal storage pace.
Using precise printing techniques, a white ring around the edge of each layout separates the betting area from the player's personal chip space.
Unlike traditional felt layouts, Sure Stick won't wrinkle or crease during the game.
A rubber-lined bottom keeps the layout from slipping and sliding off the table.
And best of all, when the game is over, Sure Stick playing surfaces can be rolled up and easily stored.
This circular layout measures 54' in diameter.
It makes a great gift idea for any poker player and is a must-have accessory for any game room.
Yellow Mountain Imports Round Table Cover for Poker, Cards, Mahjong, Board Games, Dice Games, and Tile Games, Professional Grade, Green, 48 Inches FeatureVersatility; this is the table cover for card, mahjong, domino, board, dice, and tile games Quality material; made of resilient, durable, green felt consisting of a blend of synthetic fiber and wool, this table cover will not ravel nor fray; it folds easily for convenient storage; easy care instructions; clean with a soft brush or a damp cloth; only iron at a low temperature; this material is not machine washable Functional design; featuring an apron that fits over the table edges, this table cover ensures a secure playing surface; the height of the apron that fits over the table edges is 4.
It folds easily for convenient storage.
It makes any round table of the same size as the table cover a professional-grade playing table for all card, tile, dice, and board games.
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Speed Lite Poker Table covers - Felt Style Poker Tablecloth - Covers for Patio Tables - Ideal Upgrade Playing Surface for Worn Felt Poker Tablecloths - Round Game Poker Tables green, 72 inch table FeatureFelt Style covers made in Speed Lite linen that is lightweight, color fast, available in many colors.
Speed lite is not felt.
Durable, machine washable and dry - Speed lite is the 1 Preferred upgrade surface for any worn felt covers.
Has barrel loc cinch on nylon drawstring.
Comes with storage bag.
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Cards slide easily across surface - no pill, flake, or fuzz surface - superior surface alternative to felt covers.
Available in 80 different shades.
Ever cover we make is custom, made to order, upon order.
Great for everyday play, good for indoor or outdoor play, great patio table cover.
We can substitute square for round size.
DescriptionA superior alternative to old worn out Felt Poker Best poker table fabric covers.
Speed Cloth lite is NOT FELT, it is a linen bonnet cover, is perfect for all day play.
Cloths are lightweight - polyester linen.
Simply slide on top of your worn felt cover - it is the perfect playing solution.
Custom Made to order in USA - Bonnet will drape over table edge, and cinch with nylon drawstring and barrel loc.
Each comes with storage bag.
Ready to slide on table and play.
All Covers are not returnable or refundable.
Comes in a lot of colors.
If table size, shape, or color not listed, call for assistance - cher 585 734 3423 - playezze.
Reversible Fitted Card Table Or Round Elastic Edge Green Felt Tablecloth Fits 35" to 44" Round 36" Square FeatureHigh quality felt with elastic edge Fits tables 35"-44" Round or Square Use for puzzles, cards, games, poker or a liner Made in the USA DescriptionFeaturing stretch to fit elastic edge and green felt.
Folds conveniently for storage.
Easy to use and Made in the USA Conclusion By our suggestions above, we hope that you can found the best poker table felt round for you.
Please don't forget to share your experience by comment in this post.
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I wanted a NICE poker table.
I don't have a poker room.
We live in a small place without a lot of storage.
So this project was going to have a few challenges.
The basic idea was to create what looked like a permanently installed poker table.
It would have to be stored in a smallish closet in the basement and carried up a flight of stairs every couple of weeks for the neighborhood poker game.
I looked at a number of DIY table designs and decided I could adapt them to a table topper design that would have all the elegance of a true poker table with the portablility of a table topper.
I wouldn't be carrying this topper outside of the house, so it didn't need to go far, but it did need to be mobile enough to get in and out of that basement.
Having used a number of different off the shelf toppers, I REALLY didn't want seams.
I wanted a shiny race track and smooth speed cloth playing surface.
The first thought was just to build a table much like many of the others you've seen, but just leave the legs off.
No way that was going to make it up those stairs and around that corner.
But I couldn't figure out how to get around hinges and seams.
Finally I conceptualized a three piece design that would minimize the impact of the seams, leave a single piece smooth playing surface and remain easy enough to move around the house and store in our limited space.
The basic idea is to build a one piece table with rail, racetrack and a removable insert playing surface and then split the table less the insert in half and connect them with a pair of hasps that will be hidden under the insert.
As we prepare this project there will be 5 major phases to this project: Phase 1: Selecting and assembling materials step 1 Phase 2: Woodworking steps 2-11 Phase 3: Upholstering steps 12-13 Phase 4: Finishing step 14 Phase 5: Final Assembly steps 15-19 Teachers!
Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Not to belabor the obvious, but you want to start by thoughtfully selecting your materials.
I took my time on this one, nearly 6 months in fact.
I didn't want to rush things and at the end of the day what you are looking at is a product of this decision more than anything else.
The critical decisions are 1 the vinyl 2 the playing cloth and 3 the race-track veneer.
There are a lot of options out there, so look around and see what you have available.
They have a full spectrum of materials including cups, vinyls, speed cloths, felts, and the prices are good enough.
They will also do custom prints on the cloth if desired.
Fabrics are cut in appropriate sizes so you end up doing better here than most bulk suppliers that make you buy more than what you want.
So look around, but the convenience of one-stop shopping is hard to beat.
I recommend taking the extra time and cost to order swatches and spend some time with matching your vinyl and cloth!
The other important piece is the race-track plywood.
I ended up with a reasonable birch veneer from my local lumber yard, but if you want to get crazy, check out a fine-woods supplier.
Your choices will be limited at standard lumber yards or Home Depot.
It's going to take a while, so slow down and enjoy it.
The more time you take, the better your final product will be.
The just click for source thing to understand is that you will be using THREE pieces of plywood.
This can get confusing so make sure you understand this before you make any cuts.
Use a ruler to mark the center point of the radius on both ends 24" from the end and each side.
Draw an 180 deg arc on each end.
I used a framing ruler here as a compass, but if you don't have a similar instrument, you can create one out of a board or wooden yard stick drill a hole to place your pencil in or you can opt to use a wire avoid string as it will stretch and leave you an uneven arc.
However you choose to do it, drive a screw into your center point as an anchor to draw your arc around and make sure your arc meets both edges of the board evenly.
Use a jig saw with a fine ish - tooth blade to cut your line.
Take your time on all your cuts.
You should end up with a 4'x8' oval picture 1 We're now going to repeat the same step on our Racetrack sheet but using our previous cut as a template.
Line up the edges carefully and then clamp them together tightly.
As hard as you try, you will NOT have a perfectly symmetrical cut, so the pieces will not fit together if they are not oriented properly.
So save yourself A LOT of headache and pain by doing this simple critical step NOW!
Replace the Something best poker software online that piece on top of your now cut RACETRACK sheet and once again line all of the edges up carefully and re-clamp it.
Inspect the edges for a match.
While its not entirely critical since the rail will end up covered with 1" foam and vinyl, you do want a reasonable approximation of the form here.
I doubt it would have made a difference, but I used a belt-sander to sand down the excess edging to get a better match of all of my curves.
Take a look at the first image and note that you will end up with a ring and a center piece.
This center piece is scrap and click at this page not be used if you were making a stand alone table, slot trinkets in druid best resto may end up using this piece as the base to install your legs on for our project.
You may want your rail bigger or smaller, so make your own adjustments to the measurements I used.
I used a 4" rail.
Remove the RACETRACK sheet and make sure you are working on your RAIL sheet of plywood b.
Use a framer's rafter square to mark 4" from the outer edge of the sheet, following the curve all the way around on both ends.
Using a straight edge, connect your two arcs making a straight line.
This isn't that critical, since it will be covered with upholstery,but I didn't want any notches to be felt through the vinyl on the inside edge of the rail, so I drilled my hole INSIDE the line to avoid an uneven edge.
This hole will be used to start your cut with the jigsaw.
As you make your cut, the rail will fall away from the center piece that is supported by your saw horses.
The cut away corner scraps will work well for this.
Using two clamps, clamp one of the scraps so that it has a healthy overlap across your cut line, clamping the scrap to the rail only.
Four of these jigs works well.
As you cut, you can move one behind your cut as you progress around the oval.
This makes a messy job easy to do single handedly.
We'll use this technique later as well on 3 other cuts, so learn it now.
Insert your jigsaw blade into the drill hole you made earlier, and follow your line carefully around the entire circumference of the board.
As you approach one of your jigs, pause, unclamp it and reclamp it behid the saw before progressing further down the cut line.
In this way you will make your way around the entire cut without losing control of your wood.
TAKE YOUR TIME ON THESE CUTS.
This is a good cut to practice on, but if you aren't yet proficient with a jig saw, practice on some scraps first.
Since the rail will be covered with upholstery, small imperfections won't be seen, but when we do the racetrack later, every minor deviation from the cut line will show, so now is the time to get comfortable with your saw and this technique.
It's a long cut and we are going to make two more very similar ones later.
Using a finishing sander with coarse sand paper, sand both cut edges to remove all splinters.
It doesn't need to be smooth, just splinter free.
Set the rail aside for later and discard the center piece.
It will not be used for this project.
You can reclaim in another project down the road.
We are going to cut the rail trim now during this step from the RACETRACK sheet.
This piece will be combined with the rail that we cut in the previous step to form your actual rail.
You may want to draw this "virtual rail line" in now for later reference at least on one segment of your racetrack.
Place your RACETRACK sheet on your saw horses and make sure you are working on the correct sheet.
This is your NICE piece of wood and probably cost you more so you don't want to mess it up!
Screw your compass in in my case the framing ruler as before.
This is the line we will cut for our rail trim piece.
Now mark 11" from the outer edge and then trace this all the way around the sheet in the same fashion.
This will be the cut line to separate your inner insert playing surface from the racetrack.
We will cut this later, but it is useful to mark it now while your compass is installed.
Before you make any cuts, make sure your "X" end is marked on each piece.
Note that the Racetrack itself middle section will show, so keep the marking on the outer edge.
It is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE that you keep the hole on the inner cut line INSIDE the line on the insert side as this line will be the most visible of the entire project.
We will plug this hole with wood filler later to avoid it being seen through the upholstery, but if any of that hole crosses into the racetrack area it will be visible on the finished product.
Using the same technique described in the previous step, clamp, cut and sand the outer strip 1.
Do NOT cut the inner line at this time!
Now things are starting to take shape.
During this step we are going to take the two pieces we cut in the last two steps the rail trim from the RACETRACK sheet and the RAIL from the RAIL sheet and assemble them into the final rail composite assembly.
This is where those orientation marks "Xs" start to pay off.
I in fact messed this up and had to re-do this step because I wasn't paying attention to my orientation marks on the rail trim.
As you saw in the last photo, the rail trim fits back onto the racetrack in the same orientation you cut it, so as we assemble this rail, make sure you keep the "X's" up and together on both pieces.
Failing to do this will result in an impossible fit and you will have to re-do it.
Line up the Rail and Rail Trim pieces with the X's up and together.
Make sure the outer edges fit together and are well aligned.
If they aren't, you may have inadvertently flipped one of them.
Unclamp the two pieces best poker table fabric apply a bead of film around the entire piece and then re-clamp and align the two pieces.
Picture 5 show the finished rail upside down.
Now place the assembled rail back onto the table to make sure it fits.
If it doesn't, re-check your alignment and make whatever adjustments you need to make sure that the rail fits on the racetrack.
You'll want to make any corrections before your glue dries.
This is my error correction when I realized I had flipped my rail trim upside down.
I discovered it when the rail would not fit onto the racetrack.
Surprisingly easy to do in a hurry, you'll notice the lights went out as I was repairing this mistake late into the night!
Still it was an easy enough mistake to recover from.
The X's should have both been facing up on the same end!
Easy enough to detect if you keep aware.
Again, not critical since the entire rail will be covered with foam padding and vinyl, but you do want reasonable approximation of the edges and certainly splinter free.
See the rail aside.
We'll check fit later again and upholster it later after finishing the wood work.
You could do this later, but I felt like it would be easier to do before I cut the insert out.
This was actually quite a time-consuming step.
While this is conceptually easy, for a obsessive-compulsive wood-workers eye, getting the measurements right is a trial and error process and takes time.
But don't get impatient, because if the spacing is off you will notice and once you cut these holes, you can't go back.
If you don't have one or don't want to buy one, you can cut these holes with your jigsaw.
Just draw the circles using the cup holder and then drill a starter hole in the middle and spiral your jigsaw out to the cut line.
Make sure that if you do this, you leave enough room for the cup without cutting the hole bigger than the outer lip.
You'll recall that earlier we had drawn the "virtual line" of the rail before we cut the rail trim piece off.
Measure the midway point between this virtual rail line and the inner cut line for your racetrack.
I used a combination square to set this distance for reference which you note from the photo is 3.
I used 10 cups.
You may be using 8.
Determine where you want your cups, and then place them on the table.
Figure out equal spacing by measuring and trial and error.
The more equal the spacing is, the better it will look in the end.
As you can see from the photo, I placed on center on each end, and then four along each side.
You may want them placed differently.
Using the hole saw, drill your pilot hole at the center marks and cut all of your holes.
I highly suggest you take a practice run on a scrap.
Hole saws do tend to buck and if you leave teeth marks on your racetrack, they will show.
As I said earlier, once you cut these, there is no turning back or repairing, so it is work the time to practice.
Now its time to cut that inner cutline separating the RACE TRACK from the INSERT playing surface.
You'll do this in the same manner we did the other cuts.
The difference is that BOTH sides of this cut will be visible.
This line will be one of the most prominent features of your table, so you want to do it well.
TAKE YOUR TIME and move slowly.
Insert your jigsaw into your start hole.
Attempt to minimize the damage to both pieces, but keep your blade on the side of the insert as you get started.
We are going to go back and plug that hole in the insert with wood filler.
The insert will then be covered with fabric so you won't see it.
But the Race Track line will be visibil in 360 degrees.
Cut your line carefully all the way around.
Keep your blade straight.
Smooth staight lines is what you are after.
You will not be perfectly straight, but you must avoid jagged edges.
Double check to make sure you marked your orientation marks "x" on the insert side and outer edge of the race track.
The insert will most likely only fit back in in one direction.
Now its time to turn to that last go here of plywood the thin one and cut the BASE.
This is the piece that will hold everything together.
We are going to cut it, and then route partial thickness holes to accommodate the cup holders.
Place your BASE sheet on the sawhorses.
Then place the previously cut RACETRACK on top of the base board.
Use your combination square to mark a margin around the racetrack.
The idea here is that we want the base to be wide enough to cover the seam from the racetrack and the rail, but we do NOT want it to extend to the edge of the rail.
Remember that the upholstery on the rail will be meeting this edge, so if its too long it may interfere.
It's not real critical but it does need to extend beyond the edge of the RACETRACK.
MARK the orientation marks on the BASE.
Remove the RACETRACK and cut the baseboard around this line using the same technique as before.
You notice in picture 3 that when you test the fit of the cup holders, there isn't enough depth for them to rest flush, so we are going to need to dig that out some more.
Let's now eplace the RACETRACK and remeasure your margins, aligning the two sheets.
Trace the edge of the racetrack so you can realign this later.
Then take your pencil and trace all of the cup holder holes onto the BASE sheet.
Using your router with a straight bit adjusted to about half the depth of this board route out each of the 10 holes.
This does not have to be precise work ad it will be covered and completely out of view.
If you didn't do this step, the cup holders would not be flush with the surface of the RACETRACK.
Coming together isn't it!?
Its finally starting to look like a poker table.
Plug the starter hole.
When we cut the insert out, we created a starter hole for the jig saw.
If you did this well, the hole was completely contained on the INSERT side of the cut line.
Now, we will plug it with wood filler.
Any wood filler will do since it will be covered with speed cloth.
I like this minwax epoxy-based filler because it dries quickly and strongly and sands very well, but use whatever you may have on hand.
Apply the filler according to the directions and let dry.
Then use a finishing sander to smooth it down.
Start by installing the INSERT in the table.
Measure from apex-apex and mark the center point should be 48".
Then draw a line across the middle of the entire table.
Use a square to make sure it is perpendicular to the edges.
Flip the INSERT and extend your center line on the underside of the INSERT.
Determine where you want to place your hasps.
It isn't particularly critical where, but you do want best poker table fabric here, and you want to place them close to the outside edge while still leaving plenty of room to route your dig outs.
Place your hasps on the center line of the BASE do not install themand mark these points with a short line across the center line.
I used my framing ruler to center them and placed them 9" from the center or 4" from the outside edge.
Now transfer these marks to the underside of the INSERT.
The framing ruler makes this easy.
On the INSERT, trace the shape of the hasp, and then draw a rectangle with reasonable margins around the hasp outline.
Use a straight router bit and adjust the height to accomodate your hasp.
Make sure you leave enough clearance to accommodate the entire height of the hasp without too much gap the INSERT will help to hold the hasp closed.
Now follow your lines and route out the entire box.
Using your hole saw, cut a hole in the base on both ends through the BASE layer.
Place it approximately 1" from the race track just inside the apex of the arc.
These holes will be used to push-up the INSERT from the bottom to make it easier to disassemble the table.
Test the fit of the INSERT.
Temporarily place the hasps on the baseboard picture 6 at the marked locations.
Install the INSERT to test the fit and alignment of your holes picture 14.
It should fit flush without resting on the hasps.
Now's the critical moment where we cut our table in half.
This is source for the light hearted, so make sure you understand what you need to do and then make your cuts with confidence you can't go back after this.
We are going to make TWO separate cuts through the RAIL + RACETRACK and the BASE with a slight offset in order to create an overlapping joint that will provide more stability in the final assembled table.
We did this in the previous step already, but make sure your marks are clear and complete.
Measure from apex-apex and mark the center point should be 48".
Draw a line across the middle of the table.
Use a square to make sure it is perpendicular to the edges.
Remove the INSERT and extend your center line onto the BASE between the racetracks.
This is where we will cut the BASE to create the overlapping joint mentioned earlier.
Now using your jig saw or circular saw, make your cut along the BASE cut line.
Make sure you are supporting both sides of the board with a third saw horse or other support before you make the cut.
Remove the BASE and place your RACETRACK+RAIL on the saw horses.
Clamp the RACETRACK and RAIL tightly together.
Once again, make sure you are supporting both ends and sides of the RACETRACK before you make the cut.
Now using your jig saw or circular saw, cut both sides of the RACETRACK along the lines you drew eariler.
Reassemble ALL of your pieces and inspect the fit both halves.
The RAIL and RACETRACK edges should be flush with the BASE extending on one side and receding on the other side.
Now remove the RAIL without disturbing the alignment of the RACETRACK on the BASE and clamp the RACETRACK to the BASE board.
Repeat on both halves of the table.
Make sure your screws are flush or slightly countersunk so they don't interfere with the rail once installed.
Your rail will eventually cover this line of screws g.
Now fit both assembled halves together tightly making sure both sides of the RACETRACK are accurately aligned.
It is important that the inside edges of the RACETRACK flow smoothly across the center seam.
If not the INSERT will not fit properly, and discrepancies will be visibly noticeable.
Place the hasps on the spots marked earlier and close the catches.
Screw the hasps down.
You want to leave a slight gap between the two parts of the hasp ~1mm to allow for some minimal amount of play once you get everything finished and upholstered.
Now put it all together and admire your work.
You are DONE WITH PHASE II and the table has finally taken shape.
This gives you a preview of what the final product is going to look like.
Now its time to turn to upholstery.
This is somewhat tedious, and for the un-initiated can seem a little daunting, but really it isn't that hard to do.
The good news is that upholstery is really quite forgiving.
As it is somewhat tedious though, you need to take your time and take frequent breaks so you don't get burned out on this step and get sloppy.
You are going to need a second set of hands for this step; don't try it alone.
The basic process here is to : 1 cut the 1" foam rail pad to shape.
I reccomend working on a clean surface so try to find an indoor area large enough to work and sweep and mop before you get started.
If you don't have this option, place a sheet or cloth down to work on to keep your vinyl and fabric clean.
Place both halves of the RAIL top side down on the foam with a slight gap between the two halves.
It will save you a cut if you line up one side of the rail with one of the pre-cut edges of the foam.
We want the foam to wrap around the side of the RAIL extending to the bottom edge of the RAIL on both the inside and outside.
Using your hand roll the pre-cut edge up on one side of the RAIL and re-position the RAIL until you get good link picture 3.
Once your are satisified, use a combination square to measure this distance.
Now use the square and a Sharpie marker to draw the cut line all the way around the RAIL picture 5-7.
Now mark the edge of the rail at the seams between the two halves picture 8.
Now repeat the same process for the inside edge.
You will have to make a cut in the middle in order to flap up a piece of foam to determine the width of your margin picture 10.
Mark reference marks along both outside and inside edge of the wooden rail to insure you can realign the rail with your foam later.
Use scissors to cut both pieces along your lines inside edge and out.
Spray adhesive spray to both top surface of the rail, and the surface of the foam.
Place the rail back on top of the foam aligning it with your reference marks made earlier, and then best poker table fabric it down letting it dry for 10-15 minutes.
I used the INSERT laid across the two sides of the rail with a heavy box on top to provide even weighting as it dries.
Repeat for the other half.
For each of the following steps, you will have to repeat for both halves of the rail.
After the glue has dried, layout the vinyl on the floor and place the two rail halves with the foam attached on top of the vinyl picture 15 leaving equal margins on all sides.
Draw a line half way between the two rails picture 16.
Using a rotary cutter and mat scissors will work finecut the vinyl in half along this line.
Now use your combination square, straight edge, and Sharpie to draw an inside cut line following the contour of your foam approximately 7" from the foam and an outside free casino app iphone line approximately 3-4" from the foam picture 18.
Then use your rotary cutter and mat to trim the vinyl along these lines.
The exact margins are not important, but do keep in mind that the inside margin needs to be a bit wider to allow for stretch and stapling.
You will trim the excess neatly after stapling so don't worry too much about uneven edges here.
This is where you will need an extra set of hands.
Once you get it started, you can get it done by yourself, but don't try to get this going alone.
You will likely end up with uneven read article and a sloppy finish.
An electric stapler is GOLD here, but if you must use a manual stapler, it will work fine.
Either way, make sure you apply plenty of downward pressure every time you squeeze the trigger.
This is where you really need an assistant because this is best done with two hands best poker table fabric on the trigger, one on the top of the stapler.
Fold the vinyl over, rolling the foam over the side of the rail and staple into the bottom of the rail board.
All of your staples for the outside edge need https://allo-hebergeur.com/best/best-australian-casino-apps-uk.html be in the thinner rail trim piece.
If you fold anything over the inner edge, it will interfere with the installation of the rail on the RACETRACK piece.
Start with the long straight edges and the apex of the arc picture 21.
When applying staples, it is a good pattern to use a "dividing" process.
Place a staple on each end and one in the middle.
Then split the difference and place another staple halfway between the first two.
Then split the difference again, each time dividing the staples in half until the entire edge is complete.
In this manner you maintain even pressure and avoid excess folds.
You are going to use A LOT of staples practically a continuous line of staples.
I'd recommend having two boxes on hand.
After you have completed your staple line use scissors to trim the excess vinyl just inside the staple line.
Make sure that all vinyl is trimmed so that it does not cross the inside edge of the RAIL TRIM board.
read more the tricky part.
To do the inside curve of the arc you have to make radial cuts from the center of the arc towards the outside.
You will make a series of these covering the entire arc no need to continue these cuts to the straight edges.
The hard part is knowing how deep to cut.
If you cut to deep ie.
If you don't cut deep enough, you won't have enough slack to roll the vinyl over the inside edge.
I'd recommend erring on the side of cutting short.
You can always extend the cut as you need once you begin your stapling.
I started by cutting up to about two fingers from the foam.
I did have to extend these cuts, but i felt like I remained in control this way.
Start with the straight edges and staple the inside edge in the same manner you did the outside edge.
Make sure all of your staples are on the bottom side of the top main rail piece ie.
Then do the inside edge of the arc using the same dividing technique.
Pull one of the flaps up and staple it down continuing in a dividing manner.
You may need extra staples at the apex of the cut.
Any cut left unprotected will be a weak point which may tear later.
There is A LOT of tension at the apex of the arc, so be careful.
I found that I needed to make a preliminary staple and then remove it and restaple as tension was relieved by stapling adjacent segments.
There is a little bit of manipulation here, so take it slow and don't be afraid to pull a staple out keep a pair of needle nose pliers handy.
I ended up placing two rows of staples around the arc, one to secure the flaps, and another row closer to the edge to secure all the slits.
Once again, the goal is to get all of the V slits behind your first row of staples.
Make sure no vinyl extends across teh edge of the RAIL TRIM piece.
The ends are essentially no different than wrapping a present.
Do the best you can to fold it over neatly, stapling and trimming.
You also want to be mindful that the ends on both halves of the rail will meet and be visible on the assembled table.
The more alike they look, the better it will be, so try to do it the same on all four ends.
Mine ended up a little uneven, and it is visible though not critical This is A LOT easier and quicker than the RAIL.
By now you are an expert on upholstery and won't have any problems with the INSERT.
Lay the INSERT TOP SIDE UP on the volara foam and trace the shape of the INSERT with a Sharpie marker.
Draw an "X" for a reference matching the reference marks on the INSERT.
Use the rotary cutter and mat to cut the foam.
Spray both contact sides foam and INSERT with spray adhesive.
Align the foam properly using your references marks and press it on.
Turn it over foam side down and let dry for 15 minutes or more.
Lay the INSERT top side down on top of your speed cloth or layout.
The playing side of the speed cloth should be face down.
If you have a custom printed layout, make sure your silkscreen is centered.
Once satisfied, use scissors to cut the cloth down with enough margin to fold over and staple.
Fold the fabric over with a good amount of tension and staple.
Start with the long straight edge.
Then do the curved ends using the same dividing technique described before.
Its starting to look like a table!!
I'm not going to provide a detailed tutorial here on finishing.
There are plenty of forums out there providing details.
What I would say is take your time.
Find a nice clean environment that you can leave your table in for a week or more as you finish this.
A nice polished RACETRACK will really set your table apart, so do it well.
I took my vinyl and speed cloth into a paint store that did custom stain mixes and tried to accomplish a stain that tied the two together.
In retrospect I think I would have been just as happy with an off the shelf stain.
I want a little bit of red, but not too much.
Remember that all woods will stain differently, so you definitely will want to test it on a scrap before committing your RACETRACK to the stain.
Wipe it on with a rag.
Working with polyurethane is tricky.
Bubbles are a real problem and you have to apply it evenly or it will be a mess.
You have to be patient.
I recommend reading some tutorials or forums online for tips.
A couple of key points: - Use a clean brush.
I like the foam brushes as I can use a fresh one every couple of coats.
Make sure you let it thaw adequately before the second coat.
Temperature is a key problem.
It it is too cold, it will NOT dry well.
Use a tack cloth to clean before applying next coat.
Premature application will result in a mess.
Then use a rubbing compound to buff it back to a sheen.
Too many and it will just be a mess.
Consider using an epoxy finish instead.
It is more expensive, but will look better in the end.
Next table, this is probably what I will do.
Once you are happy with your RACETRACK finish, it is time to put it all together.
Place your rail in place.
Make sure you have both halves of the table clasped together to insure that the rails from both sides fit together.
Flip the table over and run a line of 2" screws from the bottom through to the rail about 2" in from the outer edge of the BASE.
Run a second line of screws use a shorter screw this time, 1" is good just inside the inner edge of confirm. best casinos to gamble in vegas apologise RACETRACk from the bottom side.
Once again, put both sides together and check your fit.
Pay particular attention to the seam of the RACETRACK.
It may be necessary to adjust the position of one of the RAILS.
If you checked it first before screwing it down, this will hopefully NOT be necessary Its time to put the cup holders in.
Use the rotary cutter and mat to cut ~1" strips of the volara foam long enough to wrap around the entire cup holder.
Insert the cup with the foam into the hold in the RACETRACK.
No glue is necessary.
Push it snug so the ring of the cup holder is flush with the surface of the RACETRACK.
Repeat for all 10 cup holders.
Now we are going to put on the bottom pad.
This will prevent you from scratching your table as you place the poker table on top and will add a non-slip layer so the topper doesn't move easily while playing.
It took some time, but I found the best material was a high quality "rug pad.
You want the RUBBERIZED style.
This wasn't easy to find.
I ended up getting it at a carpet store after buying several others that didn't work.
It has to be rubberized and not the waffle pattern gripper that is more commonly available.
Lay one half of your topper on the floor, bottom side up.
Then lay the pad over and trim it to approximate dimensions.
Make sure it covers the whole thing.
Using scissors, trim the pad as closely as possible to the shape and size of the base sheet of plywood.
This will take two people!
Remove the pad and lay it out flat you may want to work outdoors as the fumes can be bothersome and you don't want to get glue on your floor.
From here, you need to work reasonably quickly before the glue dries.
Cover the entire surface of one side of the pad with spray adhesive.
Then cover the entire surface of the base sheet bottom of the topper with spray adhesive you have to do BOTH sides for it to stick properly.
Then, with your assistant, carefully align the edges and corners of the pad with the base sheet and lay it down smoothly and flat.
Smooth the entire surface out with your hands.
After you glue it down and smooth it out, your edges will likely extend beyond the base sheet.
Go back with scissors again and trim it once more to the final edges.
One solution is simply to wrap it in a large cloth, but I took a step further.
I used a large drop cloth it was more convenient as I was making multiple trips to the hardware store and probably cheaper than a heavy duty muslin i would have found at the fabric store.
It is a basic design.
I cut the fabric and placed two seams to make a sort of "envelope" with a flap along the top.
I then put a hem in the top flaps, and added velcro to the flap to hold it down.
I made three of these envelopes for each of the two table pieces and the INSERT.
This of course assumes you have a sewing machine and some basic sewing skills.
A detailed sewing tutorial is out of the scope of this instructable.
Im doing something similar in that the rail is in two halves.
I however attached a temporary brace into the rail while attaching the leather.
I found this easier to keep the leather under tension while stapling and removes the need for a second helping hand.

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